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Just returned from a SE asia trip that involved Cambodia and Vietnam and I wanted to just report back on some tidbits people might find useful.
In Cambodia I only had time for Siem Reap/Angkor and Phnom Phen. English is widely spoken at these two major sights. The US dollar is utilized as the defacto currency but Cambodia currency is better for smaller purchases and for getting the true lower price of things. Visas for US citizens ($20) can be obtained on the spot at airports at these two sights and requires a passport photo. I am not positive but I think even for land crossings or even by boat (Mekong River via Vietnam) you can purchase visa on the spot.
Siem Reap and the Angkor temples are a must if you are in the area and are probably Cambodia’s biggest tourist attraction for good reason. They are fantastic and maneuvering around them is fairly straightforward. You can purchase a 1, 3, or 7 day pass at the gate entry. You need a passport size photo for this pass as it is laminated onto the pass. One can be taken of you on the spot for like $1. This pass is periodically checked at various temple sights.
You can get from temple to temple by walking, bicycling, moped driver, hired taxi, hired remorque (tut-tut) or official tour. I did the tut-tut thing and was happy with it. Walking is impractical and with the heat, I am actually glad I didn’t cycle but it is a possibility. You will be asked for a guide by numerous folks but you really don’t need one. You can get all the info you need from a lonely planet guidebook or the Angkor guidebooks a hundred folks try to sell you at the sights. I think a 3 day pass is good ($40) – one day is really not enough time. A week would have been too long for me but you can certainly go at your own pace. Angkor was simply fantastic and I can’t recommend it enough. It is on the same scale as the Giza Pyramids or Manchu Picchu and should not be missed if you are in the area.
In Phnom Phen, make a point to visit the Genocide Musuem. It was a truly disturbing but memorable visit adn I learned a lot about the Khymer Rouge. I also visited the Killing Fields but didn’t find them as emotionally charged or moving, perhaps because it has taken on a more pastoral setting.
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are also really great places to visit, if for nothing else than the architecture and glimpses into Khymer art and Buddhist relics.
Begging was fairly prominent, esp in Phnom Phen near the Royal Palace as there is a large ex-pat, western area of restaurants and hotels there. I stayed in another part of town that catered more to locals and didn’t see as many beggers so they certainly congregate at specific sights. For example, there were land mine victims outside the Genocide musuem. Be forewarned that all Cambodians who have lost a limb due to landmines are all eligible for free prosthetic limbs via the UN/WHO so those that choose to not wear one are doing so to get cash from visitors. Most go home and then put on their limb. In addition, cries for moto/taxi rides will plague anyone who looks non-Cambodian.
I found the country to be safe and easy to maneuver within these two main tourist sights. Costs were fairly cheap, probably on the order of like $25-30/day, depending on your drinking habits. Accomodations ranged from the down and dirty $5/night to like $20 for A/C and TV comfort. Some things were pricey, like a $25 boat ride from Siem Reap to Phnom Phen (the bus would have been $6 but also mightly uncomfortable).
I am sure I can write more but I’ll open the forum for questions if anyone has any. I’ll write another forum on Vietnam soon.