Hello-

This was a reply I wrote but it was in the Favorites area and should be placed here as well for those looking for Nepal info.

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Wow, lots of interest in Nepal…excellent choice! The biggest mountains in the world to take you breath away every time you turn the bend…gotta get to those pics!

The poitical environment is unstable although when we were there late Sept/November it was as stable as it had been. The government knows that tourism is huge to their economy so they are very protective of tourists. There are armed military men that hang out in Thamel (the backpacker area) and big trucks of them roll through a couple of times a day…making an appearance. Up on the trails (Everest region, not sure about Annapurna) you see quite a few of them in Lukla (Where most people fly into) and in Namche Baazar, the main village in the Khumbu area.

We had heard from other hikers who started in Jiri (the low spot to begin the Everest hike which takes an extra 8 days and requires no tiny little planes landing on mountian sides) said that they had run into some Maoists. They really didn’t have any problems but were asked for about US $20. Some paid some just slowly walked away. The ones who paid were given reciepts so that if they were stopped again they could show their reciept and not have to pay again…interesting huh? Annapurna trekkers reported similar circumstances but it sounds like it was not as protected over there by the army. Remember this was all 4-5 months ago.

As far as actually trekking goes for us, it was hard. We are flatlanders and unless you live in the mountians it’s hard to train at altitude. You’ll be glad to hear that endurance has nothing to do with it although being somewhat fit does help and there are no techinical skills necesary. Two days before we arrived in Namche a very fit Japanese 20-something hiker died. He was short on time so he hiked from Lukla (about 9400 feet) all the way up to Kala Pattar (about 18,000 feet) in 3 days. On his way back down in Namche he died from a brain hemmorhage because he ascended much too fast. If you have the time to go slow I would say that 3 weeks is plenty to go up to Kala Pattar (the peak that gives the Everest view) and to go to basecamp as well (no view of Everest but if you want to see the Icefall, experience history or visit any climbing groups). Unfortunately we didn’t make is because my husband got pneumonia at 15,000 feet and we had to turn back. I guess we will have to go back, Oh well!

Altitude is the real obstacle. Some people can deal with it really well while others can’t. Even very fit people have problems because they get altitude sickness. We took Diamox starting in Namche and didn’t have any altitude-related problems but then again we went very slow too.

There are guides and porters. Some people hire both as the guide can tell you alot and knows English real well and they dont’ carry bags…that is for porters. Guides are about $20 a day and we met some that regretted it…too much money. It is really hard to get lost…the trail is so well marked and there are porters carring huge loads and yak trains (loved the yaks!) going by all the time. We didn’t hire a guide or porter but carried our own stuff…and you really do not need much. Next time I would probably hire a porter which is quite easy to do in Lukla at your guesthouse. It makes it that much easier and you can bring more stuff (like a water filter…water has to be treated and while iodine works there are still "floaties" in the water. You have to drink so much due to altitude and if you don’t you get crazy altitude headaches). Their fee is about $7-$10 a day if you have them for a couple of weeks. The ones who know English are paid a little higher but most know enough. Their food and lodging is their responsibility but his should be made clear before you leave. They usually know the tea house owners already and will work in the kitchen for their food. They also sleep in the common room which is nice because then you have a chance to chat with them. Many of the touism places in Thamel will tell you that you need a guide and porter, not true. They will also tell you that since you are American, Canadian, French, German or whatever that you need to have a guide to help you with the Maoists. I didn’t appreciate the scare tactic.

The tea houses are a really unique experience. We paid about $1 for our double room (most have double rooms, two twin foam matresses) and the bathroom in the hall. They are very sparse. Nothing more than the foam mattresses and a table. You supply your own warm sleeping bag as the rooms are not heated but the common room will be, usually by a iron stove. Once you enter the National Park area teahouses are not supposed to burn wood so many burn yak chips. You really don’t notice the difference.

We arrived at some places after 4 and had no problems finding a place. You would never be turned away though. There is always room for one more in the common area. We usually started earlier and hiked until 2 so we had time to explore the little village. Some places we stayed for a couple of nights for aclimitization and preparation purposes. Namche is good for relaxing, souvenir buying, and market browsing so most stay there a couple of days. The Tengboche monastery is also a good reason to stay in there a couple of days too. That is where we went to the Mani Rindu festival…incredible!

You are expected to eat your breakfast and dinner at the teahouse in exchange for the extremely cheap accommodation. This can run from $1 to $3 but luxuries like beer, Coke and Snickers are pricey. Someone has to carry all this in their back (or a Yak’s back) so food is not gourmet. Mostly rice, noodles, soups, and dal baht (the Sherpa National dish).

Showers are optional…really, as they can be quite inconvenient unless you stay in a posh place (there are a few along the way). The kitchen has to boil water for you and then you take a bucket shower or there is a gravity system with a top bucket, a pipe, and some duck tape. It is an interesting experience though.

We were there at the end of high season, Sept – November. It is during this time that the skies are most clear (for the fantastic Himalayan views!) and the weather is agreeable at the same time. In March -May the weather is good too but the skies are not as clear. December is still ok but the end of Nov it starts to get real cold at the higher elevations and you never take your hat and fleece off, you just sleep in them. Jan and Feb are just too cold and the trails are covered wth snow…though some hardcores still trek.

Anyway that is all for now. Let me know if you still have more questions, you future Himalaya trekkers. Salior nice to "see" you again. I will head over to Rest of the World soon. Amy