Novi Sad in Vojvodina is really nice. It is also the second city after Belgrade, so if you don’t want to see Belgrade (why not???)give that a chance.

I would really like to check out the Sandzhak region of Serbia around Novi Pazar where the ancient capital of Ras was. That would be awesome, but I cant see it being fit into your plan (if it is feasable at all).

Your itinerary looks good, althought Id consider over nighting in Mostar. Take the night train to Bar and you will awake to one of the most beautiful sights in the world. That was my all time favourite train journey.

Sick, thanks…

Yeah Im not saying I’m at all opposed to Belgrade, I’ve been there for a short time & it actually seemed like there was a lot to see & do. I might head back there. Was just comparing it with what else might be there. I’ll consider Novi Sad, depending on what happens….

I’ve heard the same about the Belgrade-Bar journey. So you’d reccomend the night journey, huh? As long as I could see in daylight the parts that are so amazing, I think I’m down for that. Thanks….

I might overnight in Mostar. Do you think there is enough to see there to warrant that? I haven’t been there…. What is there to see/do there? Is it similar to Sarajevo in that strolling the old town, exploring, etc are the best ways to see it?

Any thoughts on the "random Croatian island" i didnt name? Is it worth it go to somewhere like Hvar, or would it seem really crowded and annoying to me….. I was in Cro like 4 years ago in DBV and loved it, but it was much less touristed. Since then, Ive been in Montenegro, and that is far less touristed. I like Herceg-Novi & Kotor a lot for comparison. Thoughts?

Thanks again!

-A

I don’t think there’s a "better" Serbian town to see than Belgrade, but Novi Sad and Nis are both very nice. Novi Sad has a typical central European look, so it’s very pretty; Nis has a more dominant Turkish influence, and is most famous for the "skull tower", built by the Turks from the skulls of rebel Serbs, though only about a quarter of the skulls remain today. Or you could go down the Danube towards Romania and see Smederevo and the Djerdap national park, which is not just beautiful scenery-wise, but also has a lot of interesting historic sights, including one of Europe’s oldest prehistoric sites at Lepenski Vir. But Novi Sad is the only one that you could fit into your itinerary without losing a lot of extra time. Whichever one you choose, you’ll most likely always have to go though Belgrade.

If all goes well (fingers crossed) I’ll be working in Istria for the summer. I know that would be a bit of a detour, and as I’d be working on a large campground it’d be touristy for sure, but you’d always be welcome to pay me a visit there.

After seeing[url=‘http://share.shutterfly.com/action/share/view?i=EeINnLVy2btGiM&notag=1&x=1&sm=0&sl=0&open=1’]pictures[/url] of a friend’s recent Balkan trip, I really want to go to Mostar as well. It looks stunning, I had no idea.

Thanks Seraphim!

Those pics are great that you attached, what a great pic of Mostar, it makes me want to go there even more. Yeah I have heard a lot of good things about it, and I think it would be very interesting to see in light of what happened there and the rebuilding that has happened. It’s great to see that the bridge is built again, but I am sure the town remains severly divided.

I’m really struggling between Belgrade and Novi Sad !!! I think NS looks more "attractive" in the true sense of the word, but I also think that Belgrade would be very interesting with a lot of stuff to see that could be really neat. So I’m kind of leaning towards BG again I think. Has anyone seen the remains of the Stealth Fighter that they are supposed to have at their Aviation museum located near the airport? I was going to last time I was there, but it was closed.

How much time should I give to BG in your guys opinions? I don’t have a ton to devote to it, but how much to give it a fair chance Also, any ideas on good "local" guesthouses/hotels to stay at? I stayed at the Moskva when I was there, and it was a bit foreboding, but it would work again, and the location is great. But I’m sure there are more….any thoughts….

Thanks for the invite to Istria. Where are you going to be in Istria? I really love the Rovinj area, and wanted to return there this year, but couldn’t work it into the itin. as we will just be further south. I’m sure you are going to have an awesome time!

-A

I stayed with a friend, so I really don’t know about places to stay, except that there were not very many budget options (if any at all) back in 2001. I would think 3 days is the minimum to do Belgrade justice, though I spent about 11 days there myself in total. You should certainly see the Kalemegdan citadel, the big street where the parliament is (don’t remember the name) and the shopping street that runs to the citadel, the national museum, and Skadarlia (a cobbled street with many restaurants). I haven’t been to the aviation museum, nor to the military museum even though that’s supposed to be the best one. Maybe you could do Novi Sad as a daytrip if you don’t have a chance to fit it in otherwise, I think it’s only about an hour from Belgrade by bus. Sickboy and I stayed above a pub in Novi Sad, I could probably find the adress somehwere if you do decide on staying there.

I’m not sure exactly where I’d be working in Istria, I’m quite curious to find out myself, there’s several options, though all would be near the coast. It’s not even 100% sure yet that I’ll get the job, though I really really hope it works out.

It wasn’t so much a pub as a restaurant. Anyhow, it was very friendly, although the lady looked big and intimidating (she was the first Serb I met) but was big and warm. Her son spoke English and they were nice people.

It was very affordable as I recall, and the food was great. It was just a few metres from Einstein’s old house, which may help you locate it on a map.

As for Belgrade, the more days the better I guess. I would try to stay somewhere very central then it will be easier to do your sight seeing rather than having to commute in from the suburbs (as we did)

Oh, try to make it there when Yugoslavia wins a major sporing championship… fun!

Yeah, you’re right it was a restaurant.

quote:
Oh, try to make it there when Yugoslavia wins a major sporing championship… fun!

So true Except that it would be Serbia and Montenegro now, no more Yugo.

Ouch.

I really should have known that!

Hi, I’m really glad you’re talking so nice about my country, even if I don’t like it so much and plan to immigrate to Canada, as soon as possible. First of all, just to know that officially Serbia and Montenegro are one country, but each country has it’s own government, military, police, economy, even currency. In Serbia we use dinars (currently 1 euro = 80 dinars), and in Montenegro they use Euros. Even there’s unofficial border, but they don’t check passports or ID’s only your baggage. In Belgrade you can stay in Hyatt or Intercontinental if you have money for that If you’re traveling on budget, there are some hostels, but they’re new, and I can’t remember the location. I think there’s one near the Pionir Park and Tuckwood Cineplex Cinema, in one small street between Turkish and Brazilian Embassy, but I’m not sure. At the beginning of September there’s European Basketball Championship in Belgrade, and in the middle of July (7-10) there’s 4 day EXIT festival on the Petrovaradin Fortress right across the Danube in the Novi Sad. It’s the biggest music festival in Southeast Europe. You can come from Sarajevo by bus and plane. Between Belgrade and Novi Sad there are regular Train connections every hour and regular bus connections every 20 minutes. One-way train is 2 euros, and round journey is 2.5 euros. One-way bus is 4 euros, but I would recommend bus because it’s much faster. The ride lasts 1 hour and 10 minutes, and with train its sometimes even 2 hours. Always try to find Express Bus, so you want stop in every village and bus is going on the highway. Also at Express Buses there’s air-condition so you want "die from the heat and not having oxygen" You can go to Montenegro by night train. Never tried, but I know it’s cheap like shit and my friends are going all the time. From Bar to Herceg Novi you can see the big part of Montenegrian cost, maybe make a stop for few hours in Budva (there’s a fortress, but don’t stay to long if you don’t want to listen to crapy balkan/serbian (turbo) folk music. I can describe it like mix of Islam music with wrapping vocals, traditional accordion and maybe some soft techno beat. Disgusting in any way) and go ahead for Herceg Novi (Kotor is 15-20 minutes ride from there). I would also consider going by bus to Montenegro. It’s really nice because you’re going through Moracha Canyon (usually by night, but still you can see it) and going through all that mountains, all the time just thinking the bus is going to turn aside from the road and crash down but don’t worry it’s safe). The only problem is because usually trip would last 8 hours, but because our bus drivers are making stop in ALMOST every town and village for coffee and shit, sometimes it last even 12 hours and when you come to Montenegro you’re so fucked up. Also there are regular flights 6-7 times a day between Belgrade and Podgorica or Tivat with JAT Airways, Aviogenex Airlines and Montenegro Airlines. Tivat is small town right across the Herceg Novi (across the Boka Kotorska Bay). One-way flights cost around 30 euros, and it’s 30 minutes flight. From Herceg Novi you can easily catch bus for Dubrovnik. I think they’re going every hour. And don’t go to Ulcinj. It’s probably the dirtiest place on Earth. Nice sandy beaches, yes, but so dirty you can’t imagine. Plus you can see Albanians all around. Trust me, YOU don’t want to meet them. They’re dirty, too. In Croatia I would recommend Hvar or Brach or Korchula islands, and if you want something wild go to Mljet and also half of an island is national park, so really wild, green and not touristy. From Dubrovnik during the summer you have directs flights for many European cities, and even some budget airlines are flying there. That’s about it, and have a nice trip

IggyChe, that’s awesome!

Thanks for the great post, so much information, again I wish we could make this a "Sticky" for SouthEastern Europe!

I DO know what you mean by "TurboFolk" Spent some time in BiH& CG & Serbia last year and had some encounters with it. And yes, your description of it is quite good. It’s very strange, and I imagine very nationalistic.

I spent most of my time last time in Herceg-Novi, which I loved. I have a friend who is from there (she’s since emigrated to the US) but I really liked the town a lot. I didn’t go to Budva, and don’t intend to, as anyone I know who is Serbian/Crna Gorski tells me it’s overrated and un-necessarily touristic.

I think I will go for the BEG-BAR train. Last time I was there I flew on JAT for the route, but I’d like to see some of the amazing scenery, and have the time this time.

Would you suggest me taking a trip out to Novi Sad if Im going to spend like 2-3 days in BEG, or should I just focus on Beograd? Curious to hear your thoughts on it for sure.

Thanks for the HR Island info too. I’m trying to decide between Hvar and Korcula, as it’s hard to see the differences without going there. Brac throughs a new curveball into the equation. Does anyone have any strong thoughts on which I should do. To give it some perspective, in HR, I’ve been in Istria (Rovinj, Pula, Porec, Rijeka, Opatija (sp), etc) Zagreb, Karlovac, Dubrovnik, Split so far. Of those I really liked Dubrovnik & Rovinj. Maybe that gives a good feel to those of you who know for which I would like.

Thanks again. As usual you guys are awesome.

-A

Oh man, Novi Sad is definitely a must see. Any town/city in Vojvodina for me is nicer then any town/city southern then Belgrade. Vojvodina was under the Austro-Hungarians, and southern part under Turks. As for Croatian Islands, both Hvar and Brach are really touristy Islands, if you want something more wild, with less tourist, like I said, defiantly Mljet (look on the map, it’s really close to Dubrovnik).

Well it sounds like I have to work Novi Sad in then

How much time should I give there? I wont have a ton, but what would you say is minimum to make it worth my while? What are the best things to see there/do there? I know they have the EXIT festival, but I believe that is in July, and I will be there in August.

Thanks again……. Im going to look into Mljet as well. I’ve heard some good stuff about it too.

-A

People are nicer in Vojvodina and any of its cities, especially Novi Sad, than in southern part of Serbia. If Novi Sad would be a little bit bigger, I would definitely move there (I live in downtown of Belgrade) because it’s much more cultural then Belgrade, and there’s not so many immigrants from the rural parts of Kosovo and Bosnia. In Novi Sad go to downtown and go right across the river to Petrovaradin (you can see the big fortress where EXIT festival is happening). I think Novi Sad can be a daytrip. Also check http://www.novisadto…

I think we spent about 3 days in Novi Sad. Even if you just go there for one day, you can get a good feeling of what it’s like, just walk around the old town a bit and cross the river to the citadel. If you have more time however, I would highly recommend a visit to the Vojvodina museums. We didn’t have enough time there.

This is what I wrote about the place we stayed in Novi Sad in my Serbia guide for www.bootsnall.com :
We got a double room with shared bathroom for DM30 (EUR�15) at Bela Ladja, Kisacka 21 (tel. 021/616-594), in-between the station and the old town, and across the street from the house Albert Einstein used to live in (look for the inscription).

We got the adress at the tourist office in the train station, they gave us another one as well but their directions weren’t very good, it’s a miracle we did find it. There’s no sign saying they have rooms outside, but they’re really friendly as sickboy said, made us feel right at home.

If you have a Lonely Planet, don’t use their map for getting around Novi Sad, it’s totally wrong. And don’t believe anything they say about Belgrade either.

I agree to overnight in Mostar, there is plenty to see, but like many small towns walking around and visiting the different quarters of town is the best way to spend your time. The Neretva River is just beautiful, literally sparkling green in appearance, and the town is surrounded by mountains. Mostar was devastated by the war, but the twon has it’s life back, and the rebuilding of the bridge has gone somewhat to healing old wounds.

Mosques and churches, ottoman architecture, cobbled streets and new housing amongst bullet riddled old, makes experiencing Mostar worthwhile, and educational!

The trip from Sarajevo to Mostar is only a couple of hours, so you could easily have a full day and night there. I went up from Croatia/Islands to BH, then over to Hungry, so can’t really give you anymore advice.

PS: There is a ferry from Dubrovnik to Bari (Italy, I went from Rome to Bari (5-6 hrs on eurostar), then caught overnight ferry to Dubrovnik.

searphim you rock!

I cant believe you had the address! I always knew you were a superstar traveller but this just takes the cake! I will write Wandrian to petition you for a 6th star!

I expect a response immediately!

Iggy : Do you know much about the Novi Pazar and Sandzhak region?

welp I was gonna add some places in the balkans but there in bulgaria…as for the milatary muesuem if going to see just the remnants of the stealth fighter you may be dissapointed,as I was at first……..but the remnants of the turkish occupation and everything in between where a great unexpected sight to see and more than worth the admission.

Which Croatian island is less touristed? Hvar, Korcula and Brac are all great islands but you’ll have lots of company. Mljet is gorgeous and most people just do it as a day trip. If you got private accommodation there, you could enjoy some peace and quiet. Why not try Vis or Dugi Otok in the south or Cres in the north?

Jeanne
http://www.croatiatr…

@sickboy

I know there’s a lot of Muslims around sandzak and novi pazar, so I don’t like it too much Too conservative for me. Even Belgrade and whole Balkan is too conservative for me.

Jeanne et al,

Mljet is really attractive to me, I’ve read a lot about it, and I think I am going to try to go there for sure.

What are the ferry connections like to Dubrovnik? Do they run daily? Any idea where I could get a schedule from? I tried Jadrolinja’s site, but I couldn’t find it……..

Also, any recommendations on private places to stay on the Islland? I’d prefer that over the main hotel, so any ideas would be welcomed.

-A

what a great thread people!
thanks for putting in so much info

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get the balkans going